Our evening in Cambodia, in reverse order

-Janelle offers me warm, melty M&Ms.
-I am wrapped in a white towel, water from my pigtails drips down my back.
-We swim in the hazy green hotel pool, in the dark, under the gaze of the huge, dusty half-constructed hotel next door.
-The Tasmanian owner of the hotel holds up two packets of M&Ms and waves at us from patio.
-Janelle and I race-swim. She wins every time.
-Janelle asks the owner where we can find a convenience store. He said “Oh you’re funny. I’ll go out and find you a little something. Maybe a Mars bar.”
-We dismount from scooter, hand $2 to our kind driver. I am giggling from the ride.
-We weave through scooter traffic in the dark, passing monks in brilliant orange robes.
-I look over my shoulder and am smiling uncontrollably. Janelle laughs next to my cheek.
-Janelle and I shoot each other looks of “WTF” but both slide onto the seat, me behind the driver and her behind me.
-We leave the Riverside bar, and because it is in sketchtown nowheresville, we ask for a tuk-tuk home. We are told the bar has its own moto driver downstairs.
-We order dinner at the Riverside bar, on the second floor. We sit on the cool balcony overlooking a not-terribly-pretty section of the Mekong river. The place is empty except for two French men, smoking in the corner.
-We find the Riverside bar. Which supposedly has food. My first thought: It looks like a haunted house.
-Janelle with a guidebook under one arm, we take long strides around town and try to pretend no one’s looking at us. We try two restaurants from the Lonely Planet, both are closed.
-We grow despondent in our hunger.
-We are hungry.
-We arrive at our hotel in Battambang, a collection of freestanding rooms around a central swimming pool. It is blazing hot. We can’t even look at the pool let alone contemplate swimming in what must be 90-degree water.

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